N.Y. Times -
Environment
Study of Organic Crops Finds Fewer Pesticides and More Antioxidants
Adding fuel to the debates over the merits of organic food, a comprehensive review of earlier studies
found substantially higher levels of antioxidants and lower levels of
pesticides in organic fruits, vegetables and grains compared with
conventionally grown produce.
“It
shows very clearly how you grow your food has an impact,” said Carlo
Leifert, a professor of ecological agriculture at Newcastle University
in England, who led the research. “If you buy organic fruits and
vegetables, you can be sure you have, on average, a higher amount of
antioxidants at the same calorie level.”
However,
the full findings, to be published next week in the British Journal of
Nutrition, stop short of claiming that eating organic produce will lead
to better health.
“We
are not making health claims based on this study, because we can’t,”
Dr. Leifert said. The study, he said, is insufficient “to say organic
food is definitely healthier for you, and it doesn’t tell you anything
about how much of a health impact switching to organic food could have.”
Still,
the authors note that other studies have suggested some of the
antioxidants have been linked to a lower risk of cancer and other
diseases.
The
conclusions in the new report run counter to those of a similar
analysis published two years ago by Stanford scientists, who found few
differences in the nutritional content of organic and conventionally
grown foods. Those scientists said the small differences that did exist
were unlikely to influence the health of the people who chose to buy
organic foods, which are usually more expensive.
The
Stanford study, like the new study, did find pesticide residues were
several times higher on conventionally grown fruits and vegetables, but
played down the significance, because even the higher levels were
largely below safety limits.
Organic
farming, by and large, eliminates the use of conventional chemical
fertilizers and pesticides. Those practices offer ecological benefits
like healthier soils but produce less bountiful harvests. The Organic
Trade Association, an industry organization, estimated organic food
sales last year in the United States at $32.3 billion, or just over 4
percent of the total market.
What
is disputed, vociferously, is whether organic fruits and vegetables
provide a nutritional lift. Many naysayers regard organic as a marketing
ploy to charge higher prices.
“The
other argument would be, if you just eat a little bit more fruits and
vegetables, you’re going to get more nutrients,” said Alan D. Dangour, a
researcher at the London School of Hygiene and Tropical Medicine. Dr.
Dangour led a review published in 2009 that found no significant nutritional differences between conventional and organic foods.
Such
differences are difficult to discern, because other factors that can
vary widely from place to place and year to year, like the weather, also
influence the nutrients. Even if differences exist, it is unclear
whether they would affect consumer health.
In
the new study, an international team of scientists did not conduct any
laboratory or field work of their own. Instead, they compiled a database
from 343 previously published studies and performed a statistical
procedure known as a meta-analysis, which attempts to ferret robust bits
of information from studies of varying designs and quality.
Some
of the studies reported many measurements, some only a few. Some
included several crops grown over multiple years, while others looked at
only a few samples. But if done properly, the results of a
meta-analysis can be greater than the average of its parts.
Over
all, organic crops contained 17 percent more antioxidants than
conventionally grown crops, the new study found. For some classes of
antioxidants, the difference was larger. A group of compounds known as
flavanones, for example, were 69 percent higher in the organic produce.
(At very high quantities, as in some supplements, some antioxidants have
been shown to be harmful, but the levels in organic produce were not
nearly that high.)
The researchers said they analyzed the data in several different ways, and each time the general results remained robust.
The
study cost $429,000, which came from the European Union and the
Sheepdrove Trust, a British charity that supports organic farming
research. The scientists said the money came with no strings, and their
research passed the rigor of scientific peer review for publication.
Charles
M. Benbrook, a professor at Washington State University and another
author of the paper, said this analysis improved on earlier reviews, in
part because it incorporated recent new studies.
The
findings fit with the expectation that without pesticides, plants would
produce more antioxidants, many of which serve as defenses against
pests and disease.
The
study also found that organically produced foods, particularly grains,
contain lower levels of cadmium, a toxic metal that sometimes
contaminates conventional fertilizers. Dr. Benbrook said the researchers
were surprised by that finding; there was no difference in other toxic
metals like mercury and lead.
Even
with the differences and the indications that some antioxidants are
beneficial, nutrition experts said the “So what?” question had yet to be
answered.
“After
that, everything is speculative,” said Marion Nestle, a professor of
nutrition, food studies and public health at New York University. “It’s a
really hard question to answer.”
Dr.
Nestle said she buys organic foods, because she believes they are
better for the environment and wants to avoid pesticides. “If they are
also more nutritious, that’s a bonus,” she said. “How significant a
bonus? Hard to say.”
She
continued: “There is no reason to think that organic foods would be
less nutritious than conventional industrial crops. Some studies in the
past have found them to have more of some nutrients. Other studies have
not. This one looked at more studies and has better statistics.”
Dr.
Dangour, however, remained entirely unconvinced. He said the
researchers erred in not excluding the weaker studies from the analysis.
“To my mind, there’s no convincing evidence that these foods are
different in nutritional composition,” he said.
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