The Fats You Don’t Need to Fear, and the Carbs That You Do
The nutritional pickle
so many Americans are now in is largely a result of “an
oversimplification of dietary recommendations that created a fat
phobia,” Dr. Frank B. Hu of the Harvard T. H. Chan School of Public
Health told me.
Starting in the 1970s,
when accumulating evidence from animal and human studies showed that a
diet high in saturated fats and cholesterol was an important risk factor
for cardiovascular disease, dietary guidelines urged people to eat less
fat.
Although health advice
focused on saturated fats from high-fat animal foods, many people
generalized the advice to mean all fats, choosing in their stead a
panoply of reduced-fat and fat-free foods rich in carbohydrates, from
crackers to sweetened yogurts. They especially increased their
consumption of two kinds of carbohydrates, refined starches and sugars,
that have helped to spawn the current epidemic of obesity and Type 2
diabetes.
Experts now realize
that efforts to correct past dietary sins that made heart disease and
stroke runaway killers have caused the pendulum to swing too far in the
wrong direction.
“The mistake made in
earlier dietary guidelines was an emphasis on low-fat without
emphasizing the quality of carbohydrates, creating the impression that
all fats are bad and all carbs are good,” Dr. Hu, a professor of
nutrition and epidemiology, said. “It’s really important to distinguish
between healthy fats and bad fats, healthy carbs and bad carbs.”
He explained that
saturated fat, found in fatty animal foods like meats and dairy
products, raises blood levels of cholesterol and is not healthy, “but
olive oil is important — it’s beneficial for cardiovascular health and
body weight.” Olive oil, like canola, avocado and nut oils, is
monounsaturated, and while it has as many calories as meat and dairy
fat, it does not raise serum cholesterol or foster fat-clogging deposits
in blood vessels.
“We have to get out of
the fat phobia mind-set,” Dr. Hu stressed, adding that we also have to
abandon the idea that all complex carbohydrates are good.
Sugars are simple
carbohydrates and starches are complex carbohydrates; all are ultimately
broken down into glucose, the body fuel that circulates in blood.
Sugars are digested rapidly, quickly raising blood glucose, but most
starches take longer to digest.
Important exceptions
are refined carbohydrates, like white bread and white rice. Starchy
foods with highly processed grains that have been stripped of dietary
fiber act more like sugar in the body. They are rapidly digested and
absorbed, raising blood levels of glucose and prompting the secretion of
insulin to process it. When consumed in excess of the body’s need for
immediate and stored energy, refined carbs and sugars can result in
insulin resistance and contribute to fatty liver disease.
Alas, potatoes, the
nation’s most popular vegetable, act like sugars and refined
carbohydrates. They have what is called a high glycemic index, the
ability to raise blood glucose rapidly. Potatoes, Dr. Hu explained, are
made of long chains of glucose easily digested by enzymes in the mouth
and stomach, and the fat in French fries slows the process only
slightly.
The concept of a glycemic index, proposed in 1981 by David Jenkins and his colleagues in The American Journal of Clinical Nutrition,
has since been validated repeatedly and is now accepted as a good way
to distinguish between the kinds of carbohydrates that are
health-promoting or at least neutral and those that have negative health
effects.
In 2002, Dr. David S.
Ludwig, a pediatrician, endocrinologist and nutrition researcher at
Boston Children’s Hospital and professor at the Harvard T. H. Chan
School of Public Health, published a comprehensive review
of how glycemic index influences human physiology, clearly
demonstrating its importance to preventing and treating obesity,
diabetes and cardiovascular disease. Had Americans and their physicians
heeded it then, we might have been largely spared the fix we’re now in.
The index
was developed by testing the glucose response to a standard amount of
carbohydrate against a reference food, either pure glucose (index number
100) or white bread (71). High-glycemic foods like baked Russet
potatoes (111), white baguette (95), cornflakes (93), white rice (89),
pretzels (83), instant oatmeal (83), rice cakes (82), Gatorade (78) and
French fries (75) induce higher blood glucose levels than ordinary white
bread and are best consumed infrequently and in small quantities.
At the other end of
the glycemic spectrum, oatmeal (55), pasta (46 for spaghetti, 32 for
fettuccine), apples (39), carrots (35), skim milk (32), black beans
(30), lentils (29), prunes (29), barley (28), chickpeas (10), grapefruit
(25), peanuts (7) and hummus (6) have a smaller effect on blood
glucose, and green vegetables like broccoli have too little an effect to
be measured.
Closely related to the
glycemic index is the glycemic load. While the glycemic index measures
how quickly a particular food raises blood sugar, the glycemic load
takes portion sizes into account. Hence a food like watermelon, with a
high glycemic index, has a low glycemic load, since much of the fruit is
water.
High-glycemic foods
are a particular problem for people trying to control their weight. The
amount of insulin released to lower blood glucose can overshoot the mark
and result in a rapid return of hunger. A low-glycemic food, on the
other hand, has no such effect. And those that are rich in wholesome
fats, like peanuts or avocado, can actually delay the return of hunger,
though the calories can add up quickly if consumed to excess.
“The glycemic index
and glycemic load of the average diet in the United States appear to
have risen in recent years because of increases in carbohydrate
consumption and changes in food-processing technology,” Dr. Ludwig wrote
in 2002. The pattern persisted in the decade that followed, and can
largely explain the rise in overweight and obesity among Americans of
all ages.
In addition, chronic
consumption of meals with a high-glycemic effect can induce insulin
resistance, the hallmark of Type 2 diabetes, and an excess of free fatty
acids in the blood, resulting in fatty liver disease. The prevalence of
both these disorders has risen in recent years, and both can lead to
chronic inflammation, a promoter of cardiovascular disease.
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